Introduction
In my post titled “Zion’s West Rim Trail,” I mentioned that this has been a very dry year in southwest Utah. In contrast, the 2022-2023 winter season was quite a wet year with lots of rain. In east Zion, the washes, dry riverbeds, and gullies throughout Zion turned into raging rivers.
In April 2023, my hiking group and I went on a long 10-mile hike in the east Zion backcountry. As you will see, all the water made for some quite difficult hiking conditions, but it was all well worth the extra difficulty. And as usual, the scenery was stunning!
Note: When I refer to east Zion, I am referring to the part of Zion National Park from the famous tunnel to the east entrance of the park.
The Start of the Hike
One of the nice things about a long hike is that you need to start before dawn and by the time you are moving, the peaks are beginning to light up with the beautiful sunrise light like in the photo below.
The first thing we had to do was hike down from the road into the canyon below on a short but steep trail. Immediately, we came upon a rather wide river full of flowing water. Normally, the riverbed is completely dry. Not this time. There was one section narrow enough to jump across, though the footing on the other side was rather sketchy and the water through this section was flowing very fast leading right up to a waterfall. Most of us did jump across, but some were too concerned to do so.
In fact, it was so scary for them we almost turned back right there. But fortunately, we did find a wider section that had some rocks to use as steppingstones to get across. And where they were too far apart, we added more. So, everyone made it safely.
The Second Canyon
Very soon, we climbed up out of the first wash and up the steep sandstone cliff to another wash above. We hiked along this second wash for perhaps 1 and 1/2 miles. It really felt like being in one of those movies where the characters are hiking through a forest, and tragedy befalls one person after another.
Along this stretch, we encountered slippery mud, deep water, and even quicksand. Fortunately, although one person did sink up to their waist in quicksand, he quickly got out and no real tragedies occurred. The tragedies were all in the movies, not our hike. Thank goodness!
After the long hike up this second canyon, there was a wide trickling waterfall oozing down the canyon wall. The photo below shows only the lower section, but the wet stain continued all the way to the top of the cliff high above.
Speaking of cliffs, this is the high cliff on the other side of the canyon, looking almost straight up.
Continuing up the side to get to the last canyon we would traverse, we come across a patch of snow in the shade with icicles above it. It was quite a treat we rarely get to see.
Nearing the Top
We had a rather steep section of loose sand and large boulders to get through. One boulder in particular was precariously perching in the way and there was concern it would let loose, so we went one by one up that section. The boulder remained int place.
Finally, we came out of the last canyon. There were still some steep sections to get through, but now we were getting lots of stunning views. We passed by a rock we nicknamed the ice cream cone. It really did look yummy enough to eat.
The ice cream rock from its base is a little shorter than the average person. The surface is made of very soft sandstone and for some reason, everyone had to test how soft it was by running their finger across it. At this rate, it won’t be there for long.
Now, as we crossed the flat plateau, we came across some cliffs on the other side. You can tell the sandstone really soaks up the water since now, water is pouring out of many cracks along the cliff. Water will typically penetrate the softer sandstone until it reaches a harder layer, then flow on top of the harder layer until it finds its way out.
We had many views of both the East and West Temples. But at one point, we found a place where we could see both temples at the same time. It was quite a stunning view.
On the Edge
Finally, we came to the Parunuweap Overlook area where we could look down at the East Fork of the Virgin River far below. At this overlook, it is actually kind of scary to realize that when you stand at the edge of the cliff, you are actually standing on an overhang.
We continued hiking parallel to the cliff edge for some distance looking at more gorgeous views and interesting rock layers along the way.
Eye to the Sky
Along the edge, we came across one particular fascinating rock feature. It is actually a vortex feature, like the more famous one near Gunlock. This type of feature is formed due to winds rising up and over the cliff face. In some spots, the wind will create a vortex in the air. Sand particles get trapped in this vortex and start spinning around, slowly eroding the surface of the sandstone deeper and deeper until after a long time, a deep depression is created.
When it rains it will fill with water. I have seen this several times, but it was always dry. But this year, since we had so much rain that year, there was a nice pool at the bottom. The deep green color of the water reminds me so much of a giant eye looking straight up, and so I named this photo “Eye to the Sky.” The layered sandstone rock wrapping around the pool creates a very dynamic look to the composition.
The Return Hike
After that last fascinating feature and the surrounding views, it was time to make the long return trip to the road. This is where it gets really hard. Initially, it is mostly flat on a good surface. But just when you get really tired, you come to the very steep and treacherous downhill climbs to get from one canyon to the next. And there are three of these descents to navigate.
Below are some of the things we saw along the return trip. The last one is the waterfall from the second canyon into the first that fed into the raging river at the start of the hike. Then it was one last climb from the river to the car. Ugh!
A Concluding Poem
I had a print of “Eye to the Sky” up in an art show once and the local poet’s society came by to write some poems about some of the artwork. Unfortunately, I never met the poet who wrote one about my print. I wish I could thank her in person. This is what she wrote:
Desert Look Out
by Barbara J. Funke.
Blind sentry,
what news?
You are silent.
What ferocious wind
augured these deep
cycloptic layers of sand
that shadow the margins
down to your hollowed eye?
Your reservoir of green tears
seems envious of all-seeing sky,
its blue and white-swirled
depths of light.
Without vision or insight,
your emerald iris can express
only what the sky says:
Speak. Repeat after me.
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