Cedar Breaks – Ramparts Trail
Cedar Breaks National Monument is a beautiful place full of scenery similar to Bryce Canyon. It should be similar since it is formed from the same rock formation, the Claron Formation. From the visitor center, you can hike on the Ramparts Trail which takes you to the Spectra Point Overlook where many of the park’s Bristlecone Pines are.
Continuing down the Ramparts Trail another mile will get you to the Ramparts Overlook. But another 3/4 mile down from the Ramparts Overlook gets you to yet another amazing spot known as Bartizan Arch (sometimes called “The Bartizan“). This arch, actually a triple arch, is set in wonderful multi-colored rocks, with both living and dead Bristlecones dotting the area.
On the last Monday in August, my wife and I decided to once again escape the heat of St. George and go visit this arch. I had been to it once before, but she hadn’t, and this was one place she really wanted to see.
As we started down the Ramparts Trail, there were a ton of clouds in the sky. Some were gorgeously puffy clouds like in the picture above. Others were darker and more extensive, making us think there was a good chance of rain at some point. Judging by the damp trail, it had rained recently, perhaps during the night or the previous day.
But the clouds cast gorgeous, mottled light on the landscape and the dampness in the rocks really brought out the amazing colors. Therefore, I knew it was going to be a great day for photography, so I brought both of my landscape lenses, wide-angle zoom and mid-zoom, with me.
Along the way, we passed many of my old friends, Bristlecone trees I have photographed in the past, on the way down.
Cedar Breaks – The Bartizan
We passed the Ramparts Overlook and kept going the extra 3/4 miles through thick forest. But then the thick forest opened up and we were back on the multi-colored clay soil with more Bristlecone trees. And soon after, the Bartizan Arch came into view.
At first sight, you can’t really tell there is an arch because the rock behind it looks the same. But as you continue a little further, it becomes clearer.
And just a bit further, it really becomes obvious that there are two arches visible now. In fact, the upper one takes on the look of a bird silhouette. So cool! Plus, you can also see both living and dead Bristlecone trees in the photo. Look for that in some of the other photos also.
I also went around to the other side of the arch, but the view was not that spectacular because there is just the same kind of rock behind it at that angle. Additionally, it is a little dangerous around there, easy to slip on the loose rocks, so I don’t recommend trying.
If you do go there, don’t just look at the arch. There are also impressive views to see very close by. Wander through the Bristlecone trees taking in the forms, the rocks, the colors, and the mix of living and dead trees. It really is quite impressive. You might even find some blue-purple first-year cones on the trees.
Why are there so many dead trees lying around? One of the adaptations the trees have for living in such harsh conditions is to have very dense wood, making it difficult to decompose, especially in the arid climate and in this type of soil where not much else grows.
The Return Climb
So, there we were at the lowest part of the hike. But what was that we just felt? Uh oh, it is starting to rain. We better head back. That’s when we realize that getting to the arch really isn’t all that hard. The problem is that it feels that way because you are mostly going downhill. But going back is mostly uphill. And on top of that, it is all at 10,000 feet elevation!
Off we go uphill and into the dense forest. Part way up, we stop for the view. It is taking on a slightly hazy look due to the falling rain but it still looks gorgeous.
At this point in the story, I wanted to share some photos of a doe and her two fawns we met on the trail. She and her fawns were looking quite wet as they came down the trail towards us as we were going up. We and the deer paused and stared at each other for a bit.
It turns out, though, that I must have been suffering oxygen deprivation at the time because even though I thought I took a bunch of photos and video with my cell phone, I only have one photo of my thumb and no video! So, you’ll just have to imagine the scene of all of us wet from the rain having a staring contest.
Eventually, we manage to pass each other and continue on up the steep hill, passing by our old tree friends.
Some of these trees do find strange places to grow. To be fair, however, they were probably good places at one time, but erosion has taken a toll.
With all the rain, the trail has become pretty wet, and the dirt has turned into thick clay. Not only it is steep uphill, but it is steep uphill with 5-pound galoshes on each foot. You can see in the photo below, all the clay that has stuck to the bottom of my boot and oozed out to the side. (The photo below has been modified to artificially darken the soil that wasn’t stuck for clarity.)
Eventually, though, we did make it back up and to the car, just a moment before a heavy downpour started. If you ever think about doing this hike when it looks like rain, keep this image in mind.
Once again, my wife took some pictures of me taking pictures and created a nice video using them and my still images.
Leave a reply