The Adventure Continues
After the first three nights of sailing, there were two nights left to go. Considering that the first three nights had mostly overcast conditions, we were feeling the need for something different. We were in luck, for the conditions were changing, sometimes rapidly. The remaining nights were destined to have quite a lot of exciting variation.
Note: This is part 3 of my 4 part blog post of a trip my wife and I took to the Ilulissat Icefjord in Greenland. If you haven’t already, you can read parts 1 and 2 at the following links:
- Ilulissat Icefjord, Greenland – The Town (Our first three days in Ilulissat.)
- Ilulissat Icefjord – Sailing with Icebergs (The first three nights of sailing.)
The Fourth Night – Pink Sky
The fourth day turned out to be a nice warm day with plenty of sunshine. A promising sign for the evening ahead. This evening we began sailing after 10 PM.
When we began sailing, there was already an interesting looking line of clouds with significant structure up in the sky. This was a very promising sign. The rest of the sky was pretty clear, another hopeful sign for an awesome night.
When we began sailing, there was already an interesting looking line of clouds with significant structure up in the sky. This was a very promising sign. The rest of the sky was pretty clear, another hopeful sign for an awesome night.
By 11 PM, conditions were excellent, though some fog could be seen far in the distance. Looking out to Disko Bay, the back-lighting created a nice warm background for the icebergs in the distance. We kept our fingers crossed that the fog would stay far away.
By 11 PM, conditions were excellent, though some fog could be seen far in the distance. Looking out to Disko Bay, the back-lighting created a nice warm background for the icebergs in the distance. We kept our fingers crossed that the fog would stay far away.
But for now, we still had mostly clear skies and the high clouds as we danced around icebergs just outside the icefjord, creating many wonderful compositions. It was so refreshing to get a break from the overcast skies.
But for now, we still had mostly clear skies and the high clouds as we danced around icebergs just outside the icefjord, creating many wonderful compositions. It was so refreshing to get a break from the overcast skies.
By midnight, those wonderful high clouds we had seen overhead turned a beautiful pink. Sunset was getting sooner every night and it was now about an hour before the sunset, but the clouds were already pink and and would only get better for a while.
By midnight, those wonderful high clouds we had seen overhead turned a beautiful pink. Sunset was getting sooner every night and it was now about an hour before the sunset, but the clouds were already pink and and would only get better for a while.
When looking only at the far end of the pink clouds, the icebergs and reflections were bathed in beautiful pastel colors.
When looking only at the far end of the pink clouds, the icebergs and reflections were bathed in beautiful pastel colors.
The boats kept sailing around this pink playground finding different angles for photographing the sky and its reflection. Capturing a small iceberg in the foreground always made for a nice composition.
The boats kept sailing around this pink playground finding different angles for photographing the sky and its reflection. Capturing a small iceberg in the foreground always made for a nice composition.
While often shooting wide, it was also nice to mix it up with a longer shot capturing the iceberg with the pointed top and pink clouds above.
While often shooting wide, it was also nice to mix it up with a longer shot capturing the iceberg with the pointed top and pink clouds above.
Then shooting directly towards the pink clouds hanging in the sky behind more icebergs.
Then shooting directly towards the pink clouds hanging in the sky behind more icebergs.
As always, the sailboats made a great subject to photograph in front of an iceberg, giving a sense of the size of those icebergs.
As always, the sailboats made a great subject to photograph in front of an iceberg, giving a sense of the size of those icebergs.
After sunset, however, overcast moved in again. As I observed the icebergs under overcast once more, I remarked to one of the guides that I thought something was strange because I had not heard the ubiquitous loud bangs we were so used to at all tonight. Then, literally within 2 seconds of completing my sentence, a loud bang filled the air.
Suddenly the guide was pointing excitedly over my left shoulder at an iceberg. Turning around and whipping my camera up as quick as I could, I was able to take a series of shots showing the aftermath of a large chunk of ice that had fallen off a huge iceberg and were now sloshing out of a space between two icebergs.
The video below combines an image I took earlier that night, when the sky was still pink, with the series of images I took after the noise to show the action.
(Note: I added a soundtrack that includes an actual rifle shot track followed by low rumbling to simulate the actual sound. The rifle shot track can be startling, so be sure to check that your volume level is not too high before playing. I had made this mistake when I showed it to a room full of people while connected to a large sound system at maximum volume, and everyone jumped out of their seats!)
By 2 AM the overcast turned to thick fog creating some eerie scenes. For a while, the two boats circled one particular iceberg. Then the idea came to someone on board to play the Star Wars theme “The Imperial March” (Darth Vader’s Theme) on a portable player. And so, the boats continued to dance around the iceberg in the fog with the music playing. What a night!
By 2 AM the overcast turned to thick fog creating some eerie scenes. For a while, the two boats circled one particular iceberg. Then the idea came to one of the other people on board to play the Star Wars theme “The Imperial March” (Darth Vader’s Theme) on a portable player. And so, the boats continued to dance around the iceberg in the fog with the music playing. What a night!
The Fifth Night – Thick Fog
The fifth night in the Icefjord proved to be another night of highly variable conditions. We started out before 9 PM. Unlike the previous night when the fog came in late, tonight the fog was already quite thick when we departed.
The fog was so thick you could hardly see the Gulls in front of your face.
The fog was so thick you could hardly see the Gulls in front of your face.
The Sun simply appeared as a fuzzy light patch in the middle of less bright fuzzyness. The Sun’s reflection was the only thing visible with any sense of clarity where you could at least make out the texture of the surface waves on the water.
The Sun simply appeared as a fuzzy light patch in the middle of less bright fuzzyness. The Sun’s reflection was the only thing visible with any sense of clarity where you could at least make out the texture of the surface waves on the water.
But what a great mood it created. When something approached, you could just begin to make out what it was, though the fog blurred the details making it look much more mysterious. But there was a lingering thought, what if we were heading towards an iceberg? Would we go down like the Titanic?
But what a great mood it created. When something approached, you could just begin to make out what it was, though the fog blurred the details making it look much more mysterious. But there was a lingering thought, what if we were heading towards an iceberg? Would we go down like the Titanic?
No, those fears were never realized, and by 10 PM the fog began to lift. We could see much farther now, yet there was still a diffuseness to all the solid objects created by the lingering fog.
No, those fears were never realized, and by 10 PM the fog began to lift. We could see much farther now, yet there was still a diffuseness to all the solid objects created by the lingering fog.
Then suddenly, in front of our unbelieving eyes, what should appear? A fog bow. Similar to a rainbow which forms from light bending through raindrops, a fog bow forms from much smaller droplets of water in the fog. But unlike a Rainbow, the tiny droplets cause the different colors of the rainbow to overlap and mix creating a simple white rainbow.
Then suddenly, in front of our unbelieving eyes, what should appear? A fog bow. Similar to a rainbow which forms from light bending through raindrops, a fog bow forms from much smaller droplets of water in the fog. But unlike a Rainbow, the tiny droplets cause the different colors of the rainbow to overlap and mix creating a simple white rainbow.
Amazingly, at the end of the fog bow, the light was intensified, creating a spot light effect, and bathing the subject in bright light. It was truly an amazing sight to behold.
Amazingly, at the end of the fog bow, the light was intensified, creating a spot light effect, and bathing the subject in bright light. It was truly an amazing sight to behold.
Looking back towards the sun at icebergs as the fog lifted produced a mystical look. It looked like giant mountains rising up out of the mist.
Looking back towards the sun at icebergs as the fog lifted produced a mystical look. It looked like giant mountains rising up out of the mist.
By 11:30 PM we were free and clear of the fog. The Sun was now low on the horizon turning the light a beautiful golden color. Looking at shadows in the distance, gave a real sense of how low the Sun was.
By 11:30 PM we were free and clear of the fog. The Sun was now low on the horizon turning the light a beautiful golden color. Looking at shadows in the distance, gave a real sense of how low the Sun was.
Shortly after sunset, the Belt of Venus appeared in the sky. The Belt of Venus is the lavender colored line in the sky on the horizon opposite where the Sun sets that slowly moves upwards as the Sun goes lower.
Shortly after sunset, the Belt of Venus appeared in the sky. The Belt of Venus is the lavender colored line in the sky on the horizon opposite where the Sun sets that slowly moves upwards as the Sun goes lower.
And then it was time to head back to the hotel. On the way, with the blazing orange light on the horizon towards the sunset, it was impossible to resist one more long telephoto shot at the backlit icebergs. The next day, or really later this day, we would be leaving Greenland and taking the long trip back home.
Around the time of this last photo, we would encounter another Humpback Whale. But I will save this description until my next blog post where I will describe all the whale encounters, including this one.
And then it was time to head back to the hotel. On the way, with the blazing orange light on the horizon towards the sunset, it was impossible to resist one more long telephoto shot at the backlit icebergs. The next day, or really later this day, we would be leaving Greenland and taking the long trip back home.
Stay Tuned
Stay tuned for blog post part 4 of this amazing trip to the Ilulissat Icefjord, coming soon.
- Part 4, Ilulissat Icefjord – Whales, will cover the Humpback whale sightings during this adventure.
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